Ocean Module: The Surf Zone (Getting In)
There are two options when coming in through the waves and it'll depend on both the conditions and your ability. The first option is surfing the wave in and the second option is paddling between waves. The difference between the two options are if the waves are too difficult for you to surf in you will paddle between the waves. If the waves are within your limits you will surf the wave in.
Surfing the Wave In
1) Assess the conditions and make a judgement on where you will be able to catch the wave from, always look for the edge of a sand bank that breaks into rip if you can
2) Line a wave up and paddle with your tail perpendicular to the wave
3) As the wave begins to steepen lift your cadence and begin to move your feet to the back of the board
4) Once you are on the wave stop paddling and use your paddle to brace
5) Turning across the wave can be used to avoid nasty nose dives as well as the turbulence of the white water but do not be across the wave when the white water breaks on your tail try to be as straight as possible
Paddling Between Waves
If the waves are too big, too steep or if you just don't like surfing waves you can paddle in between waves. If done properly it is a much higher percentage option of getting through the surf. The key points are below.
1) Line the wave up like you normally would but instead of paddling when it begins to steepen up stop paddling and stand on the tail
2) Once you have let the wave go past you sprint after the back of the wave as fast as you can. You can get a little surge with it
3) Stay behind the wave all the way to the beach and don't let the wave behind you catch up to you
4) Works best on the smaller waves but can be done on the larger set waves as well